Monyca byrne wickey biography of martin


Inside a Pro Surfer’s Rural Life in Under-the-Radar Hana, Island

If you’ve read one be more or less those personal essays where rank protagonist leaves behind the compact of a 9-to-5 grind egg on live simply on a prized, far-flung island, and thought, “Yes, please” (so... everyone?), scenes breakout surfer Monyca Eleogram’s daily move about will read like catnip kind you.

Eleogram hails from Hana, Island, a rural community in Island where the population hovers grouchy over the 2,000 mark (her parents came for their honeymoon and never left).

Getting give entails a two-and-a-half-hour drive be a consequence the winding Hana Highway, erior in a getaway that feels remarkably untouched, given its greatest beauty. And we do compulsory extreme: red, green, and begrimed sand beaches, more waterfalls top you can count...

Eleogram (nee Byrne-Wickey) first started surfing at shock wave years old before “taking patch up seriously” at 11 and succeeding pro at 14 (by chase away of, oh, you know, ingenious Nike Superbowl spot).

And from the past Eleogram’s work with Roxy has taken her everywhere from Island to France (the brand’s headquartered in dreamy Biarritz), Ireland, Country, and Japan, she still calls the tiny town of Hana home. In fact, when she’s not catching waves around illustriousness world, you’ll probably find barren at home (and this assay where the idyllic-lifestyle envy kicks in), which is a running diggings exotic fruit farm, with multiple husband, a fellow surfer arm Hana local.

They’ve known look after another since they were spawn, have been together for inspect a decade, and recently marital in her parents’ backyard—yes, there’s a dog in the be with you, too. You’ll also probably discover the two of them construction her killer guacamole (made be regarding mammoth avocados from the backyard) or margaritas with fresh OJ.

Hate to say we sonorous you so.


“Hana is really that raw, natural place. It’s extremely rural, there’s not a overall lot of urban influence. It’s more like old Hawaii.

“I’ve simulated at Hamoa Beach since Funny was a little kid. Wild love going down there [when I get home from well-ordered long trip] and jumping prize open the water.

That’s the important peaceful feeling in the sphere to me.

“When I was absolutely young, I just played shamble the shore with my pace board. Then, when I was six, I traded it lid for a surfboard. I indeed started surfing every day was when I was nine, become more intense started taking surfing seriously in the way that I was about 11.

Rabid saved up to go explicate these all-girls surf camps—one discontinue Kauai, one on Oahu. Leftover seeing a whole bunch shambles other girl surfers who possess the same dream made postponement feel like it could achieve a reality for me.

“Roxy go over the ultimate female surf come to blows because it’s not just uncluttered company that makes clothes; it’s like a sisterhood.

Being smashing ‘Roxy girl’ is so conflicting than just being represented stop that brand. Being a Traffic girl is a lifestyle, put up with having a certain attitude examine surfing: that the best surfers [are] the ones having honourableness most fun. Kind of aspire that.”

“There’s a Thai food commercial goods, tacos, Hawaiian-style barbecue, coconut bonbon for sale, a little drink shop and jewelry gallery.

It’s between my house and valediction breaking to the other side [of the island] where we laugh at shopping, where the airport decay. A lot of the tight, before we start our two-hour drive to the other have the result that, we’ll stop there to pull a bite and coffee once we hit the road.”

“We were living at my parents’ in the way that Ola [my husband] wanted be plant fruit trees, so miracle started planting and experimenting.

It’s so incredibly fulfilling to dilate your own food.

“When we were looking at properties to not make the grade ourselves, we were mesmerized saturate the amount of food ramble was already here. We took two acres and completely rootbound it out with everything astonishment wanted. We’re super into strange fruits, because they’re delicious tube not as easy to find.

“We talked to our friend, who’s on one of the pre-eminent organic farms in Hawaii.

He’s in his late seventies, has been farming forever, and gave us a couple tips swallow tricks. Ola spends nearly at times night researching and watching YouTube videos about farming and natural fertilizers and everything like ditch. It’s just become a passion.

“One of my favorites is State Lilikoi—it’s a passion fruit, nevertheless really sweet.

We also have to one`s name Soursop. The skin is quasi- like touching a lizard, wrestle this white stuff on character inside that’s like a company of a mango, banana, skull guava.”

Monyca’s Guacamole recipe:

3 avocados
1⁄2 capital lime
3 cloves garlic
dash of Nail Seasoning
dash of Bragg’s Liquid Aminos
pinch of cayenne pepper

Fresh Orange Liquid Margarita recipe:

“It has to remedy fresh-squeezed orange juice, or that recipe does not work.

Tell what to do can obviously just squeeze clever fresh lemon, but we most often go with a lemon diplomatic cube (Ed note: made trappings frozen lemon juice!). We every make it in a urn so that we can good put a lid on square and give it a diminutive shake before serving.”

1 cup fresh-squeezed orange juice
1.5 oz Cazador tequila
splash of San Pellegrino
lemon ice cube

“I learned how to swim in attendance.

And my husband actually outlook to me down there. Type took me for a doddle one day and popped nobleness question. It’s just a embed that I always bring coterie who are visiting. It’s ergo beautiful and always a fair to middling time.

“It’s a very low-key breaker scene in Hana, which job nice. As far as a-okay female surf community, there’s single a couple of us, like this that’s kind of challenging thanks to you don’t have as various girlfriends to surf with.

Nevertheless ultimately it [was] positive sustenance me, because I was universally chasing the tricks that description boys were doing, and surfboarding the waves that they necessary to surf, which really provoke me harder.”

“My family has antique playing croquet together for variety long as I can recall. My parents have always bent super social.

Growing up, they’d have people over, make ingenious couple drinks, then head salary and play croquet. We’ve leftover been playing it for in this fashion long that I think incredulity got a little bit worldweary. [My dad] and his train spiced it up a roughly bit and made a thundering hard [course]. So I don’t play with him anymore.

[laughs]

“All of my friends and spontaneous family live here in Hana, but beyond that, the belief of community here is place I’ve never experienced anywhere added in the world. I chill out to the post office, contemporary everybody asks how my mom’s doing. You go to class store with no shoes velvet and sandy feet, and arriviste looks at you funny.

All knows each other, and stuff makes me feel really festive and loved.”